Sources of the Mighty Columbia

Columbia Lake, British Columbia, source of the Columbia River    © Diane B. Reed

© Diane B. Reed

The Columbia River, which forms the western boundary of Walla Walla County, is an impressive waterway by the time the Walla Walla River spills into it at Wallula Gap.  The river is born at Columbia Lake near Canal Flats, British Columbia and wanders through that province for many miles before it becomes the river we know and love. The lake that is considered the primary source of the river is nestled against the Rocky Mountains, fed by glacial runoff and springs. At Canal Flats (named for a thwarted attempt to link the Columbia and the Kootenay Rivers), a 1.2 mile glacial berm separates the two rivers.  From there the Columbia runs north for several hundred miles before turning south, and the Kootenay River heads south, dipping into the US before turning back north into Canada and joining the Columbia at Castlegar BC.

Columbia River wetlands near Spillimacheen BC © Diane B. Reed

The north flowing section of the Columbia River Valley from Columbia Lake to Mica Creek includes some of the most important wetlands and diverse wildlife along the upper reaches of the river. It's often difficult to find the main channel of the river amongst the sloughs and marshes.

Ferry, Upper Arrow Lake BC                         © Diane B. Reed

Finally, the river bends south, where it flows through Upper and Lower Arrow Lakes, framed by the Selkirk Mountains to the east and the Monashee Mountains to the west. Although the lakes were natural lakes, their levels were raised in 1968 by construction of the Keenleyside Dam near Castlegar.

SS Moyie at Kaslo BC on Kootenay Lake                 © Diane B. Reed

In the meantime, the Kootenay River is making its way north from the US until it flows into Kootenay Lake, nestled between the Selkirk Mountains to the west and the Purcell Mountains to the east. This mountain-rimmed lake was an important transportation route for towns like Nelson and Kaslo BC. The SS Moyie in Kaslo is the world's oldest intact passenger sternwheeler, now hauled out on a crib and open to the public.

After long and convoluted journeys from Canal Flats, the Columbia and Kootenay Rivers finally meet at Castlegar and head our way.

Walla Walla to Fort Steele Canada

Stores, with goods brought from Walla Walla, supplied miners at Fort Steele  © Diane B. Reed

If you've ever read about Walla Walla's early history as a supply center for the gold fields of the U.S. and Canada, you can visit that history at Fort Steele historic site on the Kootenay River near Cranbrook, British Columbia (about 7 hours from Walla Walla). As it turns out, Walla Walla was the closest supply depot to the Canadian gold fields, and prospectors and supplies followed the "Walla Walla Trail" to towns like Fort Steele.

The town includes churches, shops, and homes    © Diane B. Reed

Goods and supplies from the Northwest ended up at Fort Steele, which burgeoned during the 1864 Kootenay Gold Rush. After the gold rush faded, the town continued to prosper from mineral discoveries in the area. Finally, it pinned its hopes on the BC Southern Railway establishing its line through the town. Instead, in 1898 the railroad bypassed Fort Steele in favor of nearby Cranbrook, and the town declined steeply. Fortunately, there were a number of historic structures worth saving, and in 1961 the Province of British Columbia acquired the site and began to restore and reconstruct the buildings of the town. Today, there are close to 60 restored, relocated, or reconstructed buildings, including the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP)compound.

Locomotive 1077 leaves Fort Steele station    © Diane B. Reed

A visit to the town takes you back in time. Reenactors and craftspeople live as folks did in the nineteenth century. Home baked goods, fresh churned ice cream, and sweets tempt the visitor. Wagons pulled by draft horses rumble down the streets, offering you a ride. An old-time show is put on in the Wild Horse Theatre, and a steam train excursion leaves every hour. You find yourself totally immersed in the nineteenth century life of a small town, and you can't help but think that Walla Walla might have felt very much the same back in those days.

The Royal Canadian Mounted Police compound, Fort Steele BC Canada   © Diane B. Reed

Waving Wheat

Wheat field basks in the summer sun                                © Diane B. Reed

Waving wheat                                           © Diane B. Reed

Wheat is the backbone of agriculture in the Walla Walla valley. The undulating hills of the Palouse stretch north and northeast, the cradle of dry wheat farming.

It's been a challenging year for the wheat growers. An extended wet spring proved worrisome and expensive. Many growers had to spray for wheat rust, which can ruin their crop. The harvest has been delayed several weeks and is just getting underway in earnest.

Grain silo                                                 © Diane B. Reed

There is something intensely beautiful about a waving field of golden wheat in the late afternoon sun. But the growers are more interested in getting the harvest safely in than admiring its beauty. Weather, fire, and mechanical failures are constant concerns.

So next time you enjoy a loaf of bread, thank the wheat growers of the Palouse, our back yard.

Portlandia

Coffee artistry at Stumptown Coffee, Portland                         © Diane B. Reed

Every now and then we like to get out of town and take a trip to the big city. Most of the time we opt for Portland, which seems more comfortable to us than Seattle. Once you navigate the freeways and end up in town, Portland seems more like a series of neighborhoods than a megalopolis.  The public transportation system is easy to use and far-reaching. Bicycles are welcome and plentiful.

Public art disguises a parking garage           photo by Dan Nelson

Portland seems to have a wonderful sense of art (not to mention whimsical art). Public art seems to appear on almost every corner. Some of it's deliberate, some of it is spontaneous. It can even be interactive. We saw a neat exhibit by Portland State University grad student and artist Lexa Walsh "Portland Food Cart Songs." (check it out online) that included a series of songs developed with some of the food cart vendors near the PSU campus.

Streetside exhibit on Portland Food Cart Songs © Diane B. Reed

Speaking of food, Portland is one of the best food (and coffee) towns I've ever been to, with a wide variety of diverse cuisines and price points. During the summer Portlanders love to eat outside and soak in the sun at the sidewalk seating that spills out of many restaurants. It is a small offset to the dismal winters.

Mt. Hood from the Pittock Mansion 

© Diane B. Reed

 The city is also graced by one of the best park systems in the country, complete with gardens, trails, historic properties and the zoo. Forest Park  at over 5,000 acres is one of the largest natural areas near a city, and the Pittock Mansion nestled in the West Hills is a century-old home with a stunning view of Mt. Hood in the distance and the city unfolding below.

Sampling Portland is real treat, and one that we always look forward to.

Pittock Mansion, West Hills of Portland     © Diane B. Reed